Who doesn’t love cable designs? I have a new one for you guys today. The Crazy For Cables Fingerless Gloves / Arm Warmers crochet pattern. I have used the cable stitch in blankets, clothing, and all sorts of things. It’s a super textured and classy design element. I wanted to do something new with a cable design and since I have been obsessed with both leg warmers and arm warmers for as long as I can remember, the idea for these came to me pretty quickly. Maybe because I am an 80s baby. I cringe when I look at a lot of the popular styles of the 80s but let’s admit…. those of us who grew up then, get a certain nostalgia when seeing these crazy 80s throwbacks.

This pattern however, is a modern take on the arm warmers. I didn’t want them to be all one circumference, which would make for a more bulky, slouchy type arm warmer. I wanted something more fitted. So the pattern uses both increases and decreases to create a more fitted design. They change size to fit a bit tighter to the arms as they slim down in shape from the elbow to the wrist, and then widen again, as the wrist moves into the hand. I love the result. I got stuck on whether to call them arm warmers or fingerless gloves, because they are a little bit of both. You get the idea I’m sure. Read on below for the fingerless gloves / arm warmers crochet pattern.

I used a lighter weight (#3) DK sport yarn because I did not want the cable to be too bulky for this type of fitted arm warmer. I settled for a neutral color so that it would match plenty of my wardrobe colors. I ended up choosing Bernat Baby Big Ball Sport Yarn in the color Ecru. I got the Big Ball because I wanted to make several of these. And I made three pairs and still had some left so the Big Ball is more than enough to make a pair of these while having plenty left for other projects. This is how I have ended up with such an extensive yarn stash. But we all know….. there is no such thing as “too much yarn.”

An ad-free downloadable / printable version of this pattern is available in my Etsy shop…. HERE. If you choose to purchase the paid version, just know that I appreciate your support so much!!

You Will Need…

• Bernat Baby Big Ball Sport yarn in the color Ecru. (1 skein) or any DK/Sport weight yarn in any color you choose.
• A 4.25mm G hook
• Scissors
• Darning needle

Stitches & Abbreviations

St / Sts – stitch / stitches

ch – chain

sk – skip

sl st – slip stitch

SC – Single Crochet

DC – Double Crochet

FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet

BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet

Long DC – Long DC. To make a long DC, you will yarn over and pull up a loop one extra time before pulling through 2 loops twice, as in a normal DC.

Long FPDC – Long Front Post Double Crochet. To make a Long FPDC, you will will yarn over and pull up a loop one extra time before pulling through 2 loops twice, as in a normal FPDC.

DC2tog – Double Crochet 2 together. Used for decreasing.

Whip Stitch – Used to sew up the seam with a darning needle.

Gauge

Using a 4.25mm G hook, the gauge should = 8 1/2 rows of 16 stitches is 4 inch by 4 inch. Make sure to make your swatch larger than 4inch x 4 inch, and measure from somewhere in the middle, instead of from edges for a more accurate measurement.

Notes

The turning chains count as stitches. When starting a row, make sure to go into the second stitch opening space, not the first one that is directly underneath the ch st, which counts as a DC. If you do not do this, it will throw your stitch count off (see photo below for reference).

You will do the left fingerless glove / arm warmer pattern first. To complete the right fingerless glove/ arm warmer, follow the pattern the exact same as for the left, until you reach Row 28 (Row 1 through 27). Row 28 is just reversed for the right arm warmer because the thumb hole needs to be on the opposite side. Once you get to Row 28, follow the pattern instructions for the right arm warmer.

This pattern can be tricky if you are a beginner. I would say it is more for intermediate level crocheters, because of having to work behind and across different post stitches. I did find a really good YouTube tutorial on how to do this cabling technique by Sewrella. Hers is the best video on this particular cable stitch that I found to help you all with and I love her videos. The large center cable in her design uses the same instruction, so check out her video if you are having a hard time getting the Cable part of this pattern down.

Crazy For Cables Fingerless Gloves / Arm Warmers Crochet Pattern…

Left Fingerless Glove / Arm Warmer

Using a G hook, ch 41, DC into 3rd ch from hook.
Row 1 DC all the way across, ch 3, turn work around
Row 2 DC in 13 Sts, FPDC next 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long DC in skipped 3 Sts (regular long DC, not long FPDC) from behind… meaning go behind the stitches you are crossing to make these long DCs. FPDC next 3 Sts, DC in 14 Sts (including ch 3 at end of row), ch3, turn work around
Row 3 DC in 13 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts (BPDC the sets of 3 stitches in the order you get to them moving from right to left while working row), DC 14 Sts to end of row (including turning ch), ch 3, turn
Row 4 DC in 13 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts (from front this time), sk 3 Sts, long FPDC next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts, DC 14 Sts to end of row, ch 3, turn
Row 5 DC in 13 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC 14 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn

Row 6 Repeat Row 2
Row 7 DC2tog (not including ch), DC in next 11 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in next 11 Sts, DC2tog, DC in last St, ch3, turn
Row 8 DC in 12 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts (from front), sk 3 Sts, long FPDC next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts, DC in 13 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 9 DC2tog, DC in 10 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 10 Sts, DC2tog, DC in last St, ch3, turn
Row 10 DC in 11 Sts, FPDC in next 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long DC (regular, not front post) into 3 skipped Sts (from behind), FPDC in next 3 Sts, DC in 12 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 11 DC2tog, DC in next 9 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 9 Sts, DC2tog, DC in last St, ch3, turn
Row 12 DC in 10 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts, DC in 11 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 13 DC2tog, DC in 8 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 8 Sts, DC2tog, DC in last St, ch3, turn
Row 14 DC in 9 Sts, FPDC in next 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long DC (regular) skipped 3 Sts (behind), FPDC in next 3 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 15 DC in 9 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 16 DC in 9 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC in skipped 3 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch 3, turn
Row 17 DC in 9 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 18 DC in 9 Sts, FPDC next 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long DC (regular) into skipped 3 Sts (behind), FPDC in next 3 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 19 DC in 9 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 20 DC in 9 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC in skipped 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC in skipped 3 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch3, turn
Row 21 DC in 9 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 10 Sts to end of row, ch 3, turn
Row 22 2 DC in 1st St (after ch), DC in 8 Sts, FPDC in next 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long DC (regular) into skipped 3 Sts (behind), FPDC in next 3 Sts, DC in 8 Sts, 2 DC in next St, DC in last St, ch 3, turn
Row 23 2 DC in 1st St (not ch), DC in 9 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 9 Sts, 2 DC in next St, DC in last St, ch3, turn
Row 24 2 DC in 1st St, DC in 10 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC in skipped 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC in skipped 3 Sts, DC in 10 Sts, 2 DC in next St, DC in last St, ch3, turn
Row 25 2 DC in 1st St, DC in 11 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 11 Sts, 2 DC in next St, DC in last St, ch 3, turn
Row 26 2 DC in 1st St, DC in 12 Sts, FPDC in next 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long DC (regular) skipped 3 stitches (behind), FPDC in next 3 Sts, DC in 12 Sts, 2 DC in next St, DC in last St, ch3, turn
Row 27 2 DC in 1st St (not ch), DC in 13 Sts, BPDC 12 Sts, DC in 13 Sts, 2 DC in next St, DC in last St, DO NOT CHAIN

Row 28 Sk 11 Sts (not including St at beginning where you would normally chain up). Bend work around towards the back of arm warmer, and sl st to the 12th St (after skipping 11 Sts). See photo for what I mean here. This has formed the thumb hole opening. Ch 1, flip project around so you can do a round of SCs in every St around the thumb hole (thumb hole only) going from right to left around opening. Sl st to 1st SC of thumb hole round. DC in next 3 Sts (not thumb hole but the main part of piece), sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC in skipped 3 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC in skipped 3 Sts, DC in 16 Sts to the end of row. Bend work around and sl st in the same St where the thumbhole joins. Ch 1, SC in every St around hand opening (not thumb hole). Sl st to 1st SC to close round.

Leave about 70 inches of yarn (tail) to sew up the rest of the project. Fasten off to close last St at top, and then with a darning needle, sew up the seam carefully, using the whip stitch technique. Weave in your tail end. You are finished the first fingerless glove of this fingerless gloves / arm warmers crochet pattern.

Right Fingerless Gloves / Arm Warmers Crochet Pattern

Follow exact same pattern until Row 28

Row 28 DC in 15 Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC (front) 3 skipped Sts, sk 3 Sts, long FPDC in next 3 Sts, go back and long FPDC skipped 3 Sts, DC in 3 Sts, bend the remaining part of the row around (towards the back) and sl st the last St in row to the next open St after the 3 DCs. This has formed the thumb hole opening. Ch 1, SC in every St around opening of thumb hole (only thumb hole), join to 1st SC with a sl st. Bend the side of arm warmer opposite the thumb hole around toward the back and use a sl st to join the 1st st in row to the thumb hole join, where your hook should still be at this point. Ch 1, SC in every St all the way around hand opening (not thumb hole), sl st to the 1st SC of round of SC around hand opening.

As you did before, leave about 70 inches of yarn for a tail and using a darning needle, carefully sew up the seam with a whip stitch technique. Weave in your tail end.

Whew!! You are done!! That’s it. Now you have a super cute pair of fingerless gloves / arm warmers that you can wear in winter and even in spring if you get creative with your outfits. They are quite the fashionable accessory. And if you didn’t know this cabling technique before, now you do. Once you get the hang of it… it’s not so bad. If you liked this fingerless gloves / arm warmers crochet pattern, check out some of the other patterns here on the blog, like my Lattice Slouch Hat pattern.